Delhi is a full-body experience. India's vast, ancient capital assaults every sense at once: the scent of spices and street food, the blare of horns, the swirl of colour, the layers of history piled one on top of another across a thousand years. This is a city of Mughal emperors and British viceroys, of soaring red-sandstone forts and white marble tombs, of frantic bazaars where you can buy anything imaginable and quiet gardens where the chaos suddenly falls away. It can overwhelm you on day one and captivate you by day two, and it's the great gateway to northern India and the famous Golden Triangle.
For the budget traveller, Delhi is extraordinary value, one of the cheapest major cities in the world. India as a whole remains a backpacker's dream despite prices creeping up, and Delhi delivers world-class history, unforgettable food, and a clean, cheap metro for a fraction of what you'd spend almost anywhere else. A plate of the best street food of your life costs a pound or two, grand monuments charge modest entry fees, and many of the city's most beautiful spots are free. Delhi rewards the traveller who comes with an open mind, a bit of patience, and a willingness to dive in. We'll show you how to navigate it well and cheaply, and how to sidestep the scams that target newcomers.