Seoul is where tradition and the future share the same street corner. South Korea's electric capital is a city of 600-year-old palaces standing in the shadow of glass skyscrapers, of ancient hillside temples and neon-soaked nightlife districts, of serene tea houses and the global juggernaut that is K-pop and Korean cooking. It moves fast, eats brilliantly, and runs on one of the best public transport systems on earth. After the crowds of Tokyo or Bangkok, Seoul can feel like a well-kept secret, a world-class city that somehow still flies under the tourist radar.
For the budget traveller, Seoul is a pleasant surprise. It isn't dirt-cheap like Southeast Asia, but it's noticeably more affordable than Japan for the same quality, and far cheaper than Western Europe. Two things make it sing on a budget: the food and the transport. You can eat superbly from street stalls and convenience stores for a few pounds, and the spotless subway whisks you anywhere for around a pound a ride. Add a wealth of free attractions, the palaces are nearly free, the river parks and hiking trails cost nothing, and Seoul delivers a major world city without the major-city price tag. We'll show you how to make the most of it.