Soak up the neighbourhoods, from Hongdae to Gangnam

Seoul is a city of distinct districts, and wandering them is free and endlessly fun. Hongdae buzzes with student energy, street buskers and indie cafés, Insadong charms with traditional teahouses and craft shops, Myeongdong is the heart of shopping and skincare, and glitzy Gangnam is the modern, moneyed face of the city. Each has its own character and its own food. The joy is simply in the exploring, hopping between them on the cheap subway. We'll map out which neighbourhoods suit which moods and the best free things to seek out in each.