A food tour through Trastevere

Trastevere is Rome's most photogenic neighbourhood, all ivy and cobbles and washing strung between buildings, and it's where the eating gets serious. A guided food tour here is the fast track to understanding Roman cuisine: cacio e pepe, supplì, proper gelato, and the difference between a tourist trap and the real thing. Or do it yourself with our pointers, because away from the main squares the prices drop and the food gets better. Either way, come hungry.