Chase the viewpoints across Alfama

Lisbon's miradouros are its greatest free gift. Scattered across the hills, these viewpoints serve up sweeping vistas of terracotta rooftops, the river, and the castle, and they cost nothing but the climb to reach them. The oldest district, Alfama, is laced with them, a maze of narrow lanes, washing lines, and fado music where getting lost is the whole point. Spend a morning wandering uphill from one viewpoint to the next, and you'll have seen the soul of the city without spending a cent. We'll map out a route linking the best of them.